Germany's Seat of Power: my visit to the Reichstag

Recently I visited the Reichstag here in Berlin and took a tour.  The Reichstag is the main governmental building in German, something similar to the Capital building.  The Parliament meets there and also lots of Federal governmental business is conducted there as well.  The Reischstag itself as a building has a long and turbulent history, it was built under a monarchy, used by a democracy, burned by communists (supposedly), symbol for fascists and eventually after years of disuse restored under a reunited Germany, so as you can see it has born witness to the sea changes that have occurred during the last 120 years of history in Germany.  In 1894, under the then monarch and last official "Emperor of Germany"  Wilhelm II, the Reichstag was completed.  Until the end of WWI it served as the Parliament building with the King's consent, which was limited, but upon his abdication in 1919 was the official seat of Government during the Weimar Republic at least until 1933.  In 1933 the Reischstag suffered a disastrous fire, which was blamed on the communists by Hitler, and used as a reason to suspend the Parliament and seize power.  Hundreds of political opponents of the Nazi's were rounded up under the "Reichstag Fire Decree" and imprisoned.  When Berlin was invaded by the Russians in 1945 the Reichstag was occupied by the Russians, although after the bombing of Berlin in WWII it was really only a shell of a building, eventually the control of the area which encompassed the Reichstag was seceded to the Allies and was literally right next to the Berlin wall for almost 40 years.  After reunification in the 90's the modern Government of Germany wanted to bring the operations back to Berlin, during the time of East and West Germany the government was moved to Bonn even though Berlin was still listed as the official capital of Germany.  Finally after restoration of the Reichstag in the 90's it was reopened in 1999. 

Reichstag in 1945 after bombing

Whew okay, now that you have a good idea of the history we can move ahead with the tour.  One of the major new things added during the restoration was a large glass cupola that is meant to symbolize openness in government, it is directly over the chamber where Parliament meets.

Chamber where Parliament meets, the Eagle is a symbol of Germany, notice the German and European Unions Flags

The interior of the building fascinated me because it has some really modern art and architectural accents next to soaring neo-classical columns and baroque carvings.  Throughout the building there is art from modern artists as well as classical, and even graffiti, which was put there by the Russian soldiers during their occupation. 

Preserved Graffiti from the Russian Soldiers during 1945

The modern Reichstag building attempts to present the past of this highly contested building and come to terms with the changes that have been wrought on the country during the last 120 years. 

Modern view of the Reichstag

There are installation pieces dealing with the police state in the GDR, the victims of the Holocaust, the fledgling democracy of the early 1920's and finally a unified and (mostly) open modern Democracy.  Inside the Reichstag one thing I was not expecting was a church, Germany is a very secular country and being that the restoration was completed just a mere 12 years ago, thought they would have left this out, but this chapel was unlike anything I have ever seen.  There were references to all religions and was built as an area where members of Parliament could meditate on important decisions and pray if they wanted to.  It was carved from stone and has only carved wood chairs inside, very little sunlight comes into the room giving it a solemn feeling. 

Modern Sanctuary

 From the top of the Reichstag you can walk up the glass cupola and get a great view of the city, would recommend the tour for anyone visiting Berlin.  All in all I enjoyed my tour and learned more about the history of the government here in Germany. 

People's Garden in the courtyard

Trains and other fun things in Prague

As I write this I am sitting in the train on the way back to Berlin and have some time to reflect on my recent trip to Prague.  Speeding through the German countryside in between Dresden and Berlin, and taking in the landscape of lush pastures and wind turbines for energy, with the occasional old church or castle off in the distance.  Most of the journey the train was directly next to the Elbe River and provided me with hours of entertainment and scenery.  Last week we headed out from Berlin on our way to Prague, using the same means of transportation.  It was very convenient to board the train in our local train station and spend 4.5 hours hurtling through the farmlands and forests of Germany until we reached the mountains of the Czech Republic.  Before this trip I had a preconceived notion of train travel that it was a more archaic form of travel, but after having made this trip, I have changed my mind.  Very comfortable surroundings, we have a table in between us and our own little nook here with an electrical plug and plenty of space, if you are hungry there is a dining car you can enjoy a meal in, and a lot more room than one would have on a plane.  Now that I am done proselytizing about trains I can get to the more important story of Prague.  It is an amazing city, with history all around and yet a distinct modern feel.  It was not as if we had stepped back in time, but more that we can enjoy the historical setting and how it contributed to our society today.  Prague had so many influences on our life today and we do not even realize it.  It was the epicenter of the struggle for humanity in the face of power and corruption of regimes, starting with Catholicism in the 1400’s all the way through the Velvet Revolution in 1989, and the impact of these conflicts is ingrained in the city’s development.  The thirty years war began in Prague, as a struggle between a protestant sect the Hussites and the established church and monarchy at that time, this conflict spread to the whole of Europe and helped to shape our modern ideas about faith and individualism.  In the 1700’s was at the center of conflict in Europe yet again and saw the rise of nationalism in the face of total absolutism by the Austro-Hungarian Empire.  After this empire fell at the end of World War 1 the Czech people were finally able to unite around their own democracy, but sadly this was not to last, the fledgling republic was invaded by Nazi Germany in 1939 and experienced great loss of self identity in the years that followed, culminating with the creation of the communist nation of Czechoslovakia in 1945 by the soviet forces.  From 1945 to 1989 Prague was ruled by a dictator and had no individual freedom outside of the soviet system.  In 1989 the people of Prague took to the streets in peaceful protest against the restrictive regime.  After several months of demonstrating they achieved their goal and the fall of the Soviet Union was soon to follow.  Prague is in a strategic location, located in Central Europe on a major waterway.  You see castles and old defenses on the hills surrounding the city and the fighting throughout the centuries is almost palatable in the city.  In spite of the heavy fortifications Prague is an inviting city and filled with art and amazing architecture.  From the Charles Bridge, which was built in the 1300’s, to Frank Gehry’s Dancing building, built in the 1990’s, the city is filled with charming streets and old winding cobblestone alleys.   

You feel that you are in eastern Europe there, the streets are not as well maintained as in Germany, and the old trams would have been decommissioned in Germany a long time ago, but for me it was part of the charm.  A benefit of visiting here is the currency exchange is in our favor and it makes Prague very affordable.  We had dinner out at a nice restaurant every evening and we never spent more than 20 Euros.  We found a couple really nice places, including a great vegetarian restaurant, in a building that was over 500 years old.  Since we were here a week before Easter we got to experience the Easter Market on the old square.  It was delightful, almost like a real renaissance fair.  Old peasant women were sitting in booths painting Easter Eggs and embroidering fabric.  We toured the old palaces and castles here as well, and the oldest one here was started in the 1300’s and has several additions to it.  A difference between this castle and many others that I have seen here in Europe is that it was actually the seat of the government and you can see how a midevel castle and life were regulated, how government worked in these times.  Corruption was rampant in these times, or should I say, it was a part of life and was expected.  Things we take for granted, like legal proceedings and travel abilities were restricted then, only available to the very small percentage of people who made up the aristocracy, and could pay the authorities for these privileges. 

Old hall where the King conducted business

Newer part of the castle circa 1700's where government functions were conducted

   

Throughout all of it’s turbulent history, Prague has maintained its own identity and served as a center for humanity in central Europe intact.  That can’t be said for many old centers of civilization in Europe which were decimated by war, fire, flooding, etc. throughout the centuries.  I look forward to exploring the city again, but I recommend a trip here for everyone who wants to experience Europe as it was and see the promise of our collective human destiny.

Charles Bridge from the 1300's

Castle complex across the river from old Prague proper

Just Me and 120,000 of my Closest Friends

A big part of the political culture here in Germany is protesting, or I should say, active participation in government.  More so than anything I have seen in the US, but that may also stem from the fact that Berlin is the capital of Germany.  On my previous trips to Berlin was able to see some "protesting" in action for various causes ranging from education grievances, squatter rights, and farmers unions.  Most of these were large by my standards about 200 to 5,000 people, give or take, again not a formal count on these but recently I was able to attend a very large protest against Nuclear Power Plants.  At this protest or "demo" as it is referred to in German, there were 120,000 people in Berlin and over 250,000 people at protests that day in various German cities.  It had more of a concert atmosphere rather than a serious political protest, there was a band, a stage, and long lines for Beer and Pretzels, interspersed with crowd chanting "Abschalten" , loosely translated as close down.  On one hand it was exhilarating to be surrounded by so many people with similar beliefs in a fun atmosphere, but on the other almost surreal to be surrounded by people chanting together fists raised, and all kinds of people from kids to seniors.  A noteworthy event non the less, and definitely a lesson learned in Democracy.  Because of the protests, key elections were decided the next day in 2 German States.  In one of them, Baden-Wurtemberg, a conservative stronghold in southern Germany, they will have a Governor for the first time from the Green Party.  The Green Party in Germany is pretty powerful but it has never achieved this before, the results were overwhelming and partly had a lot to do with the power of the collective.  Due to such poor performance by the leading Conservative parties, Angela Merkel, the leader of Germany, has also spoken out against Nuclear Power and Germany is now on the way to closing most of its Nuclear Power Plants.  All in all was pleased to have been apart of the movement here and see how a large group of people, when they are motivated, can affect change.

Biking German Style

Now that I got my sick new wheels and hit the streets a few times, wanted to share some info about what to expect as a cyclist here in Berlin.  So the wheels may not be that sick, but I finally got a bike over  this weekend, or I should say I got a hand-me down that has been in the storage shed here for years, but it works.  The only problem that I have with it really is the fact that it is a man's bike and a little high for me, after having a bike for years that was too short for me it is an adjustment.  As with everything in life though, I have adapted to it and now it suits me fine.  Waited till this past Sunday to take it out, not having really biked through traffic and a city before wanted, to get my sea legs so to speak.  Was extremely nervous at first, biking down the first side street, I keep looking around like an owl trying to make sure there were no cars, and almost fell off the bike trying to swerve out of the way when the first one drove by me.  Finally make it to the main road and courage building, turned onto the bike lane and started to really move.  Just when I was starting to feel like I had made a big accomplishment and like "hey I'm biking" was passed by three old ladies out biking.
Deflated ego aside it was a great ride, rode out to the edge of the city and was really in the forest for a few kilometers.  Germany really doesn't have any urban sprawl or suburbs to speak of.  At the edge of the city it just turns into country side, and being that we live near the edge of the city, by bike this is not far.  In fact went by the location of where the Berlin wall was, on the West Side of course, not through the city.  It is also very easy to be a bike commuter here.  I see all age groups biking from very young to very old, it isnt just the fit 20-30 something year olds, but really the whole community.
After my fantastic Sunday bike tour decided to really try to bike to my language school, would have to take the train as well, it is not that close. I would have to bike to the train station from home though, and from the train station near my school to school, which is also in a very busy part of the city.  It was more nerve wracking to ride right next to the cars and occasionally have to swerve out of the bike lane to avoid a pedestrian.  There is a red lane that designates the bike lane and most pedestrians are well aware of the rules but sometimes they do stray into the red, and at which point they are promptly reprimanded by the next cyclist with a bell ringing.  This is not meant as an insult or anything, just get the outta my way before I run you over, and every bike comes standard here with the same bell, havent heard any horns.  There are even special turn lanes for bike lanes, and we have our own lights.  The lesson that I have learned most here as a cyclist is to avoid the cobblestone roads, that is just one really bumpy ride. 

Red lanes are bike lanes

special bike lane turn lights

regular workday at the Subway Station

Officially a Resident of Berlin

Finally starting to feel like home here, at first was almost vacation like.  Found an expat group here in Berlin and have been to two of the meet-ups, although it still feels a little strange to say, yes I live here in Berlin.  As of today I am actually an official resident of the city.  Also learned that the wheels of the German bureaucracy turn just as slowly as those in America.  Went to the local Buergeramt here in the neighborhood of Berlin that I live and got a number,  thought it was not going to be that long of a wait until I realized that the waiting room was down the hall not in the office there directly.  Walking down the hall I came to a door, I still have trouble sometimes and have to think what way to pull or push the door, I keep confusing the words and several times have tried to push a pull door or vise versa and received some strange looks from the other people.  Anyways made it through the door into the vast cavernous waiting room that of course was filled with people.  Looking up I saw that my number was about 45 spaces away, great.  Not bringing a book or Ipod I had nothing to do.  Fortunately unlike in the US where our government buildings are relegated to stand alone buildings with huge parking lots, this building was smack dab in the middle of a busy commercial area.  After seeing how long it took for the numbers to chance, went over  to the H&M at the mall and did some shopping, picked up a German Vogue and an Apfelschole and headed back to the Buergeramt.  Coming back 30 minutes later the numbers had slowly moved up 10 spaces, but at least now I had some entertainment.  Two and a half hours later finally was called into the office.  One major difference with the government here and in Atlanta is the lack of plastic windows and metal slots where you have to stick you papers through.  I went to a desk and sat down across from a very nice and pleasant woman.  She talked to me for a minute and got all of the information she needed, stamped my paper and I was on my way.  This is only the first step along the journey, but at least I now have enough to get everything from a bank account to a blockbuster membership.

oh, and she also gave me a great New Resident Handbook for Berlin

Little Fridge Big Dreams

Having safely arrived in Berlin my first mission was to head to Kaiser's, the local grocery store, and get some of my favorite German foodstuffs.  In a jetlagged haze I walked the 2 blocks there.  It was cold and a little sunny, what would be considered good weather for February in Berlin, but having left Atlanta the day before with sunny 70 degrees (22 grad C) thought it was cold.  Once in Kaiser's I found so many things that I had not eaten since last spring here, and forgot the size of the fridge.  I loaded up my sack with Froop, a yogurt like substance with fruit mousse on top, Apfelschorle, like an apple soda that is not too sweet, and of course Duplo, German version of Kit Kat that is delicious.

Back at the house I had to carefully put everything into the fridge like a puzzle, many times I had to start over, but eventually everything made it in.  For our first dinner here together we ate Bratkartoffeln, one of my favorite easy dinners.  It consists of boiled potatoes that are then sliced.  In a pan one would add butter, onions, and small pieces of bacon (I omit for my veggie version, but most Germans would balk at my affront to their national treasure), these are then cooked together and then then sliced potatoes are added.  At the very end you crack 2 eggs on top and let them cook, but the yolks are still runny.  This makes a delicious sauce for it and it is so yummy.

Countdown Begins

I can't believe the time is almost here, this journey that I have been anticipating and planning is upon me.  Writing this from my couch, the last piece of furniture left in my apartment, and thinking about what awaits me across the ocean.  Right now it is a little overwhelming but also freeing, selling and giving away most of my possessions.  Things that I have held onto for years are now gone, but what awaits me in memories and experiences will replace any feelings of loss over "things", hopefully.  It is also hard to imaging living somewhere that I have only visited as a tourist, how will life be exactly.  I hope you will stick with me on this journey, I will try and relay news and happenings, and new experiences as an American in Berlin.