Trains and other fun things in Prague

As I write this I am sitting in the train on the way back to Berlin and have some time to reflect on my recent trip to Prague.  Speeding through the German countryside in between Dresden and Berlin, and taking in the landscape of lush pastures and wind turbines for energy, with the occasional old church or castle off in the distance.  Most of the journey the train was directly next to the Elbe River and provided me with hours of entertainment and scenery.  Last week we headed out from Berlin on our way to Prague, using the same means of transportation.  It was very convenient to board the train in our local train station and spend 4.5 hours hurtling through the farmlands and forests of Germany until we reached the mountains of the Czech Republic.  Before this trip I had a preconceived notion of train travel that it was a more archaic form of travel, but after having made this trip, I have changed my mind.  Very comfortable surroundings, we have a table in between us and our own little nook here with an electrical plug and plenty of space, if you are hungry there is a dining car you can enjoy a meal in, and a lot more room than one would have on a plane.  Now that I am done proselytizing about trains I can get to the more important story of Prague.  It is an amazing city, with history all around and yet a distinct modern feel.  It was not as if we had stepped back in time, but more that we can enjoy the historical setting and how it contributed to our society today.  Prague had so many influences on our life today and we do not even realize it.  It was the epicenter of the struggle for humanity in the face of power and corruption of regimes, starting with Catholicism in the 1400’s all the way through the Velvet Revolution in 1989, and the impact of these conflicts is ingrained in the city’s development.  The thirty years war began in Prague, as a struggle between a protestant sect the Hussites and the established church and monarchy at that time, this conflict spread to the whole of Europe and helped to shape our modern ideas about faith and individualism.  In the 1700’s was at the center of conflict in Europe yet again and saw the rise of nationalism in the face of total absolutism by the Austro-Hungarian Empire.  After this empire fell at the end of World War 1 the Czech people were finally able to unite around their own democracy, but sadly this was not to last, the fledgling republic was invaded by Nazi Germany in 1939 and experienced great loss of self identity in the years that followed, culminating with the creation of the communist nation of Czechoslovakia in 1945 by the soviet forces.  From 1945 to 1989 Prague was ruled by a dictator and had no individual freedom outside of the soviet system.  In 1989 the people of Prague took to the streets in peaceful protest against the restrictive regime.  After several months of demonstrating they achieved their goal and the fall of the Soviet Union was soon to follow.  Prague is in a strategic location, located in Central Europe on a major waterway.  You see castles and old defenses on the hills surrounding the city and the fighting throughout the centuries is almost palatable in the city.  In spite of the heavy fortifications Prague is an inviting city and filled with art and amazing architecture.  From the Charles Bridge, which was built in the 1300’s, to Frank Gehry’s Dancing building, built in the 1990’s, the city is filled with charming streets and old winding cobblestone alleys.   

You feel that you are in eastern Europe there, the streets are not as well maintained as in Germany, and the old trams would have been decommissioned in Germany a long time ago, but for me it was part of the charm.  A benefit of visiting here is the currency exchange is in our favor and it makes Prague very affordable.  We had dinner out at a nice restaurant every evening and we never spent more than 20 Euros.  We found a couple really nice places, including a great vegetarian restaurant, in a building that was over 500 years old.  Since we were here a week before Easter we got to experience the Easter Market on the old square.  It was delightful, almost like a real renaissance fair.  Old peasant women were sitting in booths painting Easter Eggs and embroidering fabric.  We toured the old palaces and castles here as well, and the oldest one here was started in the 1300’s and has several additions to it.  A difference between this castle and many others that I have seen here in Europe is that it was actually the seat of the government and you can see how a midevel castle and life were regulated, how government worked in these times.  Corruption was rampant in these times, or should I say, it was a part of life and was expected.  Things we take for granted, like legal proceedings and travel abilities were restricted then, only available to the very small percentage of people who made up the aristocracy, and could pay the authorities for these privileges. 

Old hall where the King conducted business

Newer part of the castle circa 1700's where government functions were conducted

   

Throughout all of it’s turbulent history, Prague has maintained its own identity and served as a center for humanity in central Europe intact.  That can’t be said for many old centers of civilization in Europe which were decimated by war, fire, flooding, etc. throughout the centuries.  I look forward to exploring the city again, but I recommend a trip here for everyone who wants to experience Europe as it was and see the promise of our collective human destiny.

Charles Bridge from the 1300's

Castle complex across the river from old Prague proper